For example, a few other Attacks are significantly improved by an upgrade and should take higher priority, including Uppercut and Pommel Strike. The spreadsheet in the introduction has a more detailed breakdown of upgrade priority. Afterwards, generally Powers > Utility Skills > Defensive Skills > Attacks, though it varies pretty widely. Whirlwind is the highest priority, followed by True Grit and Body Slam. Hopefully, when following this guide, you won't need to rest more than once or twice throughout the run. It's hard to give a general answer, but it's good to rest when you're below 50% hp or about to take some tricky fights. These potions are sometimes worth picking up in a shop, and should mostly only be used in encounters where you think you are likely to die or take overwhelming damage otherwise. If you make it to the final boss with 3 Dex potions, it almost doesn't matter what cards are in your deck it's that hard to lose. Save Dexterity Potionsĭexterity potions are the best potion in the game for us. If you do not upgrade Bash, consider removing it before Defends. I recommend removing Strikes first, followed by Defends. Keeping a small deck also requires you to remove cards. I will give a bit more specific advice on which cards to take later, but my average final deck size is less than 20 cards. When every card in your deck is strong, it makes turns very consistent. Generally, I advocate only taking about as many cards as you are going to upgrade. Never take Calling Bell from a boss without 2 charges of Omamori. I suggest avoiding every other optional means of obtaining curses, unless you have Omamori. If you really want the extra power, a 50% chance of a curse can be worth a relic. Upgrading a card is probably worth a 25% chance at an Injury, if you don't feel like the curse will kill your deck. Necronomicurse is fine, because it always comes with a game-winning relic. They all have exceptions, but all card and event decisions should be made with them in mind. There are a few constant playstyle decisions that I will be assuming throughout the run. I will talk more about these later when I get into how to actually draft your cards. However, I find that making these types of decks with Ironclad relies a bit too much on finding certain key cards.Īnother big reason why defensive decks work well is the presence of one-card win conditions that will eventually lead to a win despite playing mostly blocks every turn. The best way to mitigate this risk is to create small, focused decks. If your deck relies on killing the enemy as quickly as possible, then if you ever enter a battle and cannot win in one or two turns, you face taking large amounts of damage from the enemy attacks. If your deck is filled with defensive cards, you have a high chance of being able to defend against enough damage every turn. Why should we build the Ironclad in a defensive manner? In short, I find it more consistent.Īs long as you defend against all of the incoming damage every turn, you only need a minimum amount of offense to win the fight. Also, their main stat is Strength, while the Silent is focused more on Dexterity. If you want to explore the game yourself, stop reading now! Why Defensive?Ī larger portion are offensive-oriented, rather than defensive. Note: This guide contains significant spoilers. Hopefully, you can use this knowledge as well to improve your skills on the Ironclad. I (Quincunx/ForgottenArbiter) have personally used primarily this style to obtain a current active win streak of 16. The Ironclad supports many different styles of play, but I have found this style to be the most simple and consistent for securing consecutive victories. This guide will focus on a particular way to play the Ironclad class that is very defensive.
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